Brush Sushi Izakaya is a Japanese gastropub located in Decatur specializing in yakitori.

Gastropub: snacks and plates somewhat bigger than what we think of as tapas, but still smaller than a full entrée and usually meant for sharing. Yakitori: skewers upon skewers of grilled chicken parts that are delicious and not very greasy. Also, kushikatsu: skewers more heavily seasoned and breaded than yakitori.

Megan Volpert

All skewers run from $2.50 to $6, with a chef’s choice mixed plate at $18 to $20. Eaters new to this type of grilling can stick to wings and thighs, maybe a little pork belly. More adventurous eaters can hit the heart, neck, cartilage and other items that are comparatively rare. You don’t see a lot of conservationist whole-bird butchering in Atlanta.

There are some things on the menu that are gaining in popularity right now. The house chashu rice with soy-cured yolk and seared pork belly will satisfy folks who usually stick to the safety of ramen or fried rice. There’s a nice rice-less poke (fish salad) of tuna, salmon, avocado and house chili oil that was thoroughly flavorful without going overboard into spicy territory. For those who do enjoy more spicy food, they have a yellowtail jalapeno that I’d put up against Umi’s. While Umi lays a pepper slice right on the fish, Brush does it as a puree that looks just as lovely while thankfully distributing the heat more evenly.

With the ramen renaissance in our city, from Nexto to Jinya, Atlanta will need to be increasingly discerning about the broadly competitive field of Asian cuisines.

At a minimum, our vocabulary needs to get somewhat beyond edamame, nigiri and omakase. The dish that will keep Brush in the running for top tier dining in this regard is definitely the snow crab chawanmushi. Chawanmushi: a hot or cold egg custard. Brush’s version arrives steaming in a gorgeous clay pot. The silky custard is wonderfully delicate and the snow crab is evident throughout. Between the pop of the ikura (salmon caviar) and the umami (savory taste) of the Shimeji mushrooms, Brush’s snow crab chawanmushi is one of the best ways to spend $9 in Decatur.

Some people have complained that it’s too expensive and that Decatur is already full of decent sushi. It’s true that this place is more expensive than other nearby places; save it for date night or when you’ve got visiting in-laws to wrangle. Brush will especially please your father-in-law, who notoriously subsists on steak and baked potatoes. This is because Brush is not really a sushi place.

Brush Sushi Izakaya, 316 Church St., Decatur, 30030. For more, visit brushatl.com or call
678-949-9412.